Dynex vs dyneema review reddit. The discussion over nylon vs.

Dynex vs dyneema review reddit Read pro's and con's and best uses (and see full explanations for each along with links to geek out even further). Same stuff. I don't use them for anything else. com Feb 11, 2016 · Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. Spectra is tougher than dyneema and will not shred as much over rock edges. . Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). Polyester has also been used, but it's not nearly as common as nylon. Same decrease in strength from kots. The discussion over nylon vs. From the top: Mammut Contact, Petzl Pur'Anneau, BD Dynex, Sterling Dyneema, Camp USA 11mm, Trango Low Bulk, Metolius Open Loop, BlueWater Titan, Sterling Nylon, and BD Nylon. Bad things (can) happen. Is Dyneema backpacks really that durable as advertised, or did I fall into a marketing hype trick? I have been looking into reviews on Google and YouTube, but everyone who spends 420 dollars on a backpack would says its awesome to justify its cost. Both Dynex and Dyneema boast an impressive strength-to-weight ratio, with Dyneema being slightly stronger than Dynex. Personally I would avoid using it for anything doesn't have a rope somewhere in the system. Aug 31, 2020 · Nylon vs. The home of Climbing on reddit. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. e. Dyneema (also known as Spectra or Dynex) is incredibly strong for its weight and is more abrasion and cut-resistant than nylon. Jun 24, 2024 · While both Dynex and Dyneema share many similarities, there are some key differences between the two materials that may make one more suitable for a particular application than the other. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Oct 6, 2008 · if so, i would definitely go with the dynex/dyneema draws. they're lighter and more flexible than the nylon, which you will care about down the road if you become a trad climber. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. See full list on outdoorgearlab. From left to right, Chimera + Hoodwire with a BD dynex single, Positron + Hoodwire with a BD dynex single, Two Neutrinos with a BD dynex single, Two Neutrinos with an Edelrid nylon single, and an old-school style hand tied single on BD oval carabiners (because I had the stuff on hand and was curious). Dyneema is weaker under shock loading so it should be used in a system where there are other dynamic components, eg as a runner on a cam or for an extended draw where the rope is the dynamic part of the system. In recent years ultra-high-molecular-weight (UHMW) polyethylenes, with brand names like Dyneema, Dynex and Spectra have gained popularity. 1. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. In addition to the breaking strength loss on falls(see the dmm tests that Van-van posted), dyneema will also lose strength after repeatedly tying knots overtime. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. And yes we are scared of falling. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. you should always buy what you're most comfortable with but i seriously encourage you to consider wiregates. The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. Good for extended draws. Dyneema slings are prized for their light weight and low bulk, and alpine/winter climbers often prefer them for not absorbing water. I personally don’t tie knots in dyneema and only use nylon for anchors. More specifically do my BD Dynex runners suffer from the same knot weaknesses as Dyneema? Spectra, dyneema, dynex. And completely non-dynamic. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. I actually had to toss a dyneema sling today because it rubbed too much on an edge and tore through half of it. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Dyneema. For years the main material in climbing slings has been nylon. Spectra is not the same as Dyneema. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. Sep 1, 2023 · All 10 slings that we tested for this review side-by-side for comparison, arranged from thinnest on top to thickest on the bottom. Dyneema can't be dyed, so slings are always white, often with a coloured thread running through them too – this is a nylon ‘filler’ that is used to help hold the sling together. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. yayye leer bvjm pvr tun wwzhc znu zmvp rjefy gxjrq